Potato Salad

Boil the potatoes

Put the potato cubes in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until a fork slides into a cube with no resistance but the cube still holds its shape, 10 to 12 minutes from the time the water boils. Start checking at 8 minutes; overcooked potatoes turn to mush when dressed.

Drain and season while hot

Drain the potatoes well in a colander and return them to the warm pot. Sprinkle with the vinegar and toss gently. Hot potatoes absorb the vinegar in a way cold ones cannot, and this is what keeps the salad from tasting flat. Let them cool for 15 to 20 minutes until warm but not steaming.

Mix the dressing

Stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper in a small bowl until smooth.

Combine

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. Add the celery, red onion, relish, and chopped eggs. Pour the dressing over the top and fold with a rubber spatula until everything is evenly coated. Some of the potato edges will break down and thicken the dressing, which is what you want.

Chill and finish

Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours so the flavors settle into the potatoes. The salad will look a little dry after chilling; stir it and add a spoonful of mayonnaise if needed. Taste for salt, fold in the dill or parsley, and dust the top with paprika before serving.

Make ahead. The salad is better on the second day and keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Substitutions. Swap the relish for 1/4 cup chopped dill pickles plus a pinch of sugar, or leave the eggs out. Russet potatoes work but break down more, giving a softer, creamier salad.