Fried Rice

Break up the rice

Spread the cold rice on a plate and break up any clumps with wet fingers so the grains are separate. Cold, dry rice fries into distinct grains; fresh warm rice turns gummy.

Scramble the eggs

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or 12 inch nonstick skillet over high heat until it shimmers. Pour in the eggs and let them puff at the edges, then scramble with a spatula until just set and no longer glossy, about 30 seconds. Slide them onto a plate and break into small pieces.

Cook the aromatics

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pan. Add the onion and stir-fry until it softens and the edges turn golden, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for 20 seconds until fragrant.

Fry the rice

Add the rice and spread it across the pan. Let it sit for 30 seconds so the bottom crisps, then toss and repeat. Continue until the grains are hot through, glossy with oil, and some have crisp, toasted edges, about 4 minutes. If you are using meat or shrimp, stir it in now along with the peas and carrots and cook for 1 minute to heat through.

Season and finish

Drizzle the soy sauce around the edge of the pan so it sizzles before it hits the rice, then toss to coat evenly. Add the sesame oil, pepper, eggs, and scallions and toss for 30 seconds. Taste and add a splash more soy sauce if it needs it. Serve hot.

Make ahead. Cook the rice the day before and spread it on a sheet pan to cool before refrigerating uncovered; that dries the grains for frying. If you only have fresh rice, spread it out and freeze it for 20 minutes.

Storage. Leftovers keep for 3 days in the refrigerator and reheat well in a hot skillet.