Cornbread

Heat the oven to 425F (220C) with the skillet in it

Put a 10 inch cast iron skillet on the middle rack while the oven comes up, and leave it there another 10 minutes after it reaches temperature. The hot pan is the whole point of this recipe. Batter meeting hot fat in hot iron sets instantly and builds the crisp brown shell that makes cornbread worth eating. A cold pan gives you a pale, soft-sided cake.

Whisk the dry ingredients

Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Southern style leaves out the sugar and Northern style includes it, and both are correct, so add the 2 tablespoons or do not.

Whisk the wet ingredients

Beat the eggs in a second bowl, then whisk in the buttermilk.

Combine the batter

Pour the wet into the dry and stir just until no dry pockets remain. Lumps are fine. Overmixing makes it tough. Let it sit while you get the skillet out.

Add the fat and pour

Pull the skillet out with a dry mitt and set it on the stovetop. Add the butter or bacon fat and swirl until it melts and coats the sides, about 20 seconds. Pour the batter into the center in one go. It should hiss and the edges should set as you watch.

Bake 20 to 25 minutes

Return the skillet to the oven. The cornbread is done when the top is evenly golden, the edges have pulled back from the iron, and a skewer pushed into the center comes out clean. Rest 10 minutes in the pan, then turn it out or cut wedges straight from the skillet.

Handle. The skillet handle stays dangerously hot for a long time after it leaves the oven. Drape a towel over it as a reminder.