Coleslaw

Shred the cabbage

Cut the cabbage into quarters and cut out the tough core from each piece. Lay each quarter flat and slice it crosswise as thinly as you can, about 1/8 inch, with a chef's knife or the slicing blade of a food processor. Grate the carrots on the large holes of a box grater. Combine both in a large bowl.

Salt and drain the cabbage

Toss the cabbage and carrot with the salt and let the bowl sit for 30 minutes. The cabbage will wilt slightly and a puddle of liquid will collect at the bottom. Tip the vegetables into a colander, press gently, and pat dry with a clean towel. Skip this step and the slaw will turn watery within an hour of dressing.

Mix the dressing

Whisk the mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, mustard, celery seed, and pepper in a small bowl until the sugar has dissolved and the dressing is smooth. Taste it on its own. It should be noticeably tangy and a touch sweet, since the cabbage will mellow it.

Dress the slaw

Return the drained cabbage and carrot to the large bowl. Pour the dressing over the top and toss with tongs until every shred is coated. The slaw will look heavily dressed at first; it loosens as it sits.

Chill before serving

Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The cabbage softens a little and the flavors even out. Toss again before serving and taste for salt and vinegar.

Make ahead. Coleslaw keeps for 3 days in the refrigerator. It is crispest on the first day and softer but still good on the third. Stir before serving and drain off any liquid that has collected.

Substitutions. A 16 oz (450 g) bag of coleslaw mix replaces the cabbage and carrot. Use half red cabbage for color, or swap 1/4 cup of the mayonnaise for sour cream or plain yogurt for a lighter dressing.